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How to build an efficient barricade
now we'd all love to live in fortified compounds hours away from another living soul. but lets face if or most of us thats just not an option. so if you had to barricade the typical american home, (two story attic basement three bedroom two bath) to protect you from zombies and any other threat how would you do it?
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Permalink Reply by saint.357 on
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well lets start with my house cause I've thought about this alot and im bugging in for at least the first two weeks. i have enough supply's for that and it will give me time for the cause to sweep bye. remember zombies will be drawn to people and as people move so will zombies. i live in a two story house with a furnished attic. now barricades i really want to get plywood to put over my down stares window but honestly after looking into everything i think my best bet is to just barricade the one stairway to the second floor. i just have too many windows and i mean that hell i have a little side room a sun polar that is nothing but fucking windows on three sides. and the way my stare case is angled all i have to do is through some of the heavy big ass dressers i have on the second floor down and that's it no zombies are getting past. all my supply's are up there I'm set. i have windows that give me a pretty good 360 view around the house. now as for getting out i go that covered. one of the windows in by bedroom happens to look out right at my back yard on goes down onto my porch. strait shoot, which is why i got 50 feet of 1200 pound test climbing rope. hanging on a nail next to the window along side an ax. cause once i bust that window out the frame is big enough for even me to climb out of. now I'm sure your asking hey wont there be zombies. not really because my back yard is enclosed by not only a chest high steal fence. but on the side facing the street there is also a wall of trees. i mean frankly its ridicules my grand father planted them and they have just completely over grown you can hardly see through it let alone climb through. my neighbors side is more open but all this should give me enough cover and right ahead is my driveway where our car is always parked i would say about 10 to 20 feet away. run for it bash any zombies in the way and get in and go.probably after drawing attention to the other side with one of my distraction grenades. basically a small battery powered siren. and if that doesn't work on the other side of my room another window faces right at my neighbors house and one of there windows. i use to hate it because theirs only like a five maybe ten foot gap between our houses. and the windows line up perfectly so people in that room can see perfectly into mine and vice verse. so i can probably bash out that window with something through i line over or something. ore if its clear they have a side door right below the window i can distract them away climb down and break in rather easily so it gives me more options. so ahh that's pretty much my plan in a nut shell for fortifying my house. just comment if you have questions or better ways i can do this.
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Permalink Reply by Jessie W. Garrett III on
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When it comes to Plywood, make sure it's real plywood, not the damn chip board.
This is chipwood or what they now call OSB board. It's cheaper then plywood, but doesn't last or isn't as strong a real plywood. Once this shit gets wet, it begins to rot instantly. So lets say you have this covering the inside of your windows, (cause lets face it, when the news hits, we aint going outside), the window gets busted somehow. It rains or just from the moisture in the air in the early mornings, the shit gets wet. It'll be about a week and this chipboard or OSB board will be just as weak as the paneling in your house or trailer.
I've used this trash on inside walls. Which as long as it stays dry, it'll last a couple of years. I've seen this shit get wet and suffer through the elements of the weather and when you go to use it, it falls apart...
If you look at the side view, this OSB board, chipwood or chip board is nothing more the sawdust and wood shavings glued together to for a bullshit building material...
I have two pics here to show those who aren't very familiar with carpentry work or some forms or woodworking or DIY home improvement what REAL PLYWOOD looks like....
This picture to the left gives you a side view of plywood. As you can see, real plywood is put together in layers, not like OSB board or chipwood or chipboard.
I've used both in many construction plans and on many jobs in which I was helping. I've seen this stuff get rained on, snowed on and suffer through the elements till it was used and still be good. The picture to the right shows what it looks like when cut to shape and bolted to cover a window...
Will supply more details on more building supplies later...I wanted everyone to know that when fortifying a place, don't skip on the price when it comes to materials...
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Permalink Reply by KOMRAD RHINO☭ on
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here in Ohio. we call the chip board another name. PARTICLE BOARD. and i cant agree with you more. this stuff is SHIT! i at the moment live where its all one level. so boarding up with real plywood will be rather quick when the shit hits. and being out in the county. it buys me some time getting the wood on the outside put up before the stinkers hit my area. now the beauty about the home i live in is this. i would only have to board up the living room picture window and the patio door being a sliding glass door. the main door has no windows and both front window and patio door i took the liberty of putting up hardwood framing to so i can get the stuff nailed up and re-enforced with 2 inch wood screws quickly. i also did this with the inside as well. now when it comes to windows like the bedrooms have. a chance of a stinker getting in those is as much if as high odds of me being a Chinese jet pilot. reason being if you have no ladder. you dont get in. the wondows are one foot higher then me. and i stand at 6' in height standing flat on the ground. lol. but i intend to put some up anyway on the inside to make it look dark from outside because they only attack what they see. they also have slots cut out so i can see out of them and shoot to if need be. so if they cant see me. they keep moving. and being the house has a great insulation rating. its practically sound proof. so they wont even really hear me either. so in a nutshell. what i have is basically simple and effective. also well stocked to. food and water has NEVER been a major problem for me. and being i have well water. if i put the well pump on generator. i got plenty of fresh iron rich well water to go with the food i got stockpiled. its only when the food starts to run low will i ever need to venture out for anything and being this will be only for a couple of weeks to hide in. once the shit hits and backs down some. its off to Columbus to take over the old state prison for me and mine.
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I have five windows in my first floor apartment. I've taken 5 different sheets of plywood and cut them down to fit snuggle into the inside of the window from on the inside of the apartment. I also have taken four 2X4's and have cut them down to fit behind the plywood and screw directly into the window framework of the building itself. I have two 2X6's that form an X across the backside of the plywood.
Only thing getting through that window is a bullet. Plus I've decided to get some extra 3M type insulation strips so if the window is broken I won't lose much heat or cool air. We have three fans that will keep the air circulating...Cause within a small apartment like mine, the air will become stale so keeping the air circulating in the apartment will help not only with the cooling, but also the heating...
Now for the door, I still like my main idea of using three 2X6s with the J type brackets. I have six of the J type brackets screwed directly into the door jam and frame of the door infra-structure. Since our door has three hinges that it hangs from, I have one set of brackets set 1 inch above the top hinge. One set of brackets set 1 inch below the middle hinge and one set of brackets set 1 inch above the bottom hinge of the door. Three points of bracing should and will make my door three times stronger then a single board crossing the middle. I was thinking about adding something to this barricade of the door, just not sure what to do yet. I'm still thinking and checking out ideas for that...
The picture below shows a simple J shaped steel bracket. Even though this bracket is good, most of the really good brackets have a from piece that measures about 4 to 6 inches. It's still shorter than the mounting back. The best way to really attach this is by use 3 inch lag screws. These lag screws take a 1/2 inch boxed end wrench or rachet to put them into the framing. This will secure the brackets and also help brace the 2X6...
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another thing that will make that idea with the door more secure is to brace the corners of the door to. this will not only stop vibration which can weaken the braces. but in general re-enforce the whole thing. cant get fingers into what wont move at all. right? lol
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yeah i plan to do pretty much the same thing with my house. for extra security on the door i would reinforce the frame on the latch side. they sell commercial product to do it or you can just run a strip of metal down it which is basically the commercial product anyway. one of those doorknob blocks which is like a special stick you put under the door knob to wedge the door wouldn't hurt. i use the brace bar method on door to my office slash war room. it didn't have a lock on it so i through this together.
it's rotating on the hinge side and then falls into something like you j bracket only it looks more like a lightning bolt and i bent it my self out of a mending plate. very hard to do. it has a counter weight on it for smooth quick decent also so that i can trigger it via remote with out having to get up from my desk.
sorry for the crap pictures my cell phone camera sucks in low light. it has another string at the top that is used as a safety so it doesn't fall when I'm away and the trigger. i just release the string from a little hock at the edge of my desk and it droops the hammer. for added security i also have this brace bar.
it can be wedged between the door and really really old TV which must way 500 pounds by it's self. i don't know how it got up here but needless to say its never leaving. up against it is a cabinet and against that is the wall. so it will take some force to get in here. i also reinforced the door frame with six inch screws ever foot or so. and i plan to layer the outside of the door in sheet metal one of these day.
I've also made some additions to my front door too. i used three heavy duty gate bolts like these to secure it.
two on the latch side on on the hinge with the long side of the bolt go into drilled holes in the door frame. its not perfect but its better then the regular dead bolt. i want to beef up the frame with metal. braces and more locks as well as coating the outside with sheet metal painted of course to look like wood. well that my fortification so far.
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Good ideas, but here's something to hold your bracer bar in place. A simple U shaped bracket. This way placing one on your TV and one on the door will keep your bracer bar in place. Without the U shaped brace I can see someone kicking the hell out of it or even zombies beating or bouncing on the door and the vibration from that jarring the bracer bar loose and causing it to drop to the floor.
I would also suggest using a 2X4 for your hammer and the bracer bar. Gives you a little extra protection, but also give you that extra 5 to 8 minutes if you have to escape.
But a good way to use those old ass console TV's though.
Oh and I need to let you know that hanging your bow like that aint the best way to hang it. (L) You have the same 15 or 18 lb Zombie Killer bow I got from my boys as a christmas present last year...The best way to hang it would be long ways, placing your hangers (screws or whatever), where the pulley bracket and bow meet will be a lot better for your bow. This is how a lot of us display our bows. And according to a lot of old hunters, its the only way to disperses the weight of the bow. From what I've learned through the years....(LOL)
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yeah i was going to do that with the u bars when ever i can get to home depo and thanks for the tip on the bow i did that mostly for space cause i got three other bows on the wall and few other things. but I'll try moving it around. and i wanted to use a 2 by 4 but theirs not enough room their in the corner for it. but i am thinking of armoring the hammer with metal should make it stronger. remember like most of my stuff, it was all made with junk i had lying around. i like to call myself a scrap yard engineer! i use what ever i got to get the job done.
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Thought about switching the way it falls?? instead of having it fall from right to left, have it fall left to right? Basically turning it around...That should allow you to use a 2X4...But it's just a suggestion...
As for metal, if you have an old metal bed frame, you can use the rails. Cutting the rails down and replacing your hammer with the Sledge Hammer would be even more secure and a hell of a lot stronger....
Still looking in to your license plates...Like a black hole came through the state and sucked the bastards into another universe..(LOL)
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